Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
